BOSS Audio Systems AR4000D Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier - 4000 High Output, 1 Ohm, Low Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET, Bass for Subwoofer

UPDATE 11-10-16After a week Still impressed, did a meter test and it was drawing 50 amps x 12v = 600 watts true rms @ full volume. So I Upgraded my wire and new better battery terminals and 100a fuse holder. Did another meter test and i got 100 amps x 12v = 1200 watts true rms... it blew the fuse holder. So I ordered a better fuse holder with 150a fuse.. will do another update when installedAfter reading almost all the reviews for this amp I decided to just go for it! Glad I did!I needed an amp the can push (1) 15" Orion HCCA dual 2ohm wired to 1.13ohms exactly. That being said, I got my amp today and installed it my self.I was really nervous at first thinking this amp would not be able to push the sub hard enough and thinking the amp might blow a fuse or something of that matter.Turn it on and I was Amazed by the amount of power it was feeding my Orion. Put it this way, i couldn't even go past 1/4 turn on my bass knob and the head unit past 1/3! The sub was flexing about 3 inches, my hair and beard was vibrating and my truck felt like it was gonna fall apart... I mean the doors were flexing so hard it looked like it wanted to open. And my windows looked like they wanted to chatter... amp settings were set all to minimum except the gain wich I was controlling with my knob.Honestly I'm afraid and excited and nervous to turn it half way thinking the air bags will set off or windows chattering...I drive a 2009 2 door Ranger , with stock head unit and I removed my passenger side seat to e able to fit my 15 inch sub.. it takes up the whole space..I will update once I crank it up more and run it for a bout 45 min...Extremely happy with this amp and for the price you can't beat it! Hope this review helps.. if it can hammer my competition 15" Orion HCCA it definitely can hammer any other sub out there with ease.. might even blow your sub if your not careful ...As for the negative reviews, well you prob don't know what your doing, not hooked up at the correct ohms the amp requires will definitely blow your amp!Update-1Just noticed it cracked my front windshield !!

Bought this thing for under a hundred bucks in January 2017 I believe? Lasted me up until probably 2022 or 2023 I think, which wasn't bad for $125 at the time. And I beat on this thing - loud settings, hot trunk, no ventilation or anything whatsoever.When it finally died, I emailed Boss and they had me send it in and gave me a free replacement - after like 5 years! Great product support. I didn't expect them to do that, but the fact they did it anyways was fantastic customer support.I've since outgrown the need for a dedicated subwoofer in the trunk, but last time I checked it still works. Absolutely great product. I'm also not sure what car amplifiers go for these days from reputable brands, but I'm sure it's much higher than $180.Highly recommend this!

First one i got with in 2 weeks it burned out. Got a replacement and with in a week it started to go to protection mode, now it doesn’t work at all. Spend your monet elsewhere

So a year and a half ago, I was gifted 2 infinity reference series 12 inch subs from my brother. it was clear that I needed a large amp to power it. I had an mtx 750, and it didn't work as well as I expected it. but then I saw a 2000 watt boss for 75 bucks. I decided to go for it. it has been running at full power since I purchased it. I bought 2 twelve inch Rockford fosgate punch 12s and found out that they little 2000 watt amp would not push all 4. so I brought out the big guns. I ordered 2 ar4000 monoblock amps, 1/0 pure oxygen free copper, going to a .5 farad cap and a 2 farad cap. split into 2 lengths of 4 gauge jl audio pure copper. I set it up put the bass level to full. big mistake. I cracked my windshield, edge to edge, on the passenger side of my car. my mirror vibrated all the way down until it was looking at my dash. my check engine light came on and made my car misfire for a few seconds. and my neighbors car alarm went off and in turn made them call the police on me. I'm seriously impressed with they whole armor line of amps from boss. I might just be purchasing another! you will need a spare battery to run these at their peak, because they will kill your battery on extended trips with the level all the way up.Edit: now have 6 subs, 4 alpine bassline 12' 1 infinity reference, and 1 12 inch sony xplode 1200 watt, with a total max load of 6542 watts. I had a failure in one of the other infinity subs so I replaced it.pushes all of them very well. my best friend left cookies on all my subs while I was working on them, and when I went to turn it on, shot cookie bits all over my car. 2nd edit. I am now running 2 soundqubed hdc3.18 subs in a 12 cube box 35z at 0.5 ohm. It pushed them hard but clips if my voltage goes uder 13.5. It also gets very ho.

This amp has amazing power, I have it hook up to my xs power D3400 Main battery With 4 guage Nvx amp kit, I am soon installing an XS Power XP 3000 battery for my trunk and 0 guage Nvx wire.... Anyway this amp has the potential of getting really loud, I Have The BOSS AR 4000 amp pushing 2 Rockford fosgate P3 s . This amp puts out Clean loud bass, I only have the gain about a quarter of the up and it hits hard, so i would highly Recommend this AR 4000 its very affordable and it puts out clean bass response!

I purchased two Boss ar4000d strapable amps. I previously purchased a Boss armor 3k amp prior to these and repaired it twice over a two year span due to overheating.I am driving a single 4ohm stable 1k watt 15" sealed speaker. The amp/s are more than sufficient to power that.Both amps have been installed with 4awg wire and a seperate isolated interstate 1000cca agm battery to support the workload.I am not over working the amp with a too heavy resistive load nor am I starving the amp/s of power to support the needs.I thought using two in straped mode would cut the workload(current) in half. It did cut down the workload but they still overheat due to poor thermaltake cooling design in the aluminum chassis.Boss please install a PWM cooling fan! Or install some more aluminum thermaltake cooling panels!Regarding the Boss Armor AR4000DPros- they work excellent in a straped configuration with a cost of about 275$ For both amps. They're outputs are clean and clear when all pots are adjusted to the lowest settings. You won't find a cheaper strapable set of amps.Cons- the amps overheat and thermally cutoff with extended normal use and under normal working conditions. Very Poor aluminum thermaltake cooling designed chassis.Regarding the AR3000.2 amp, the actual wattage power rating is way over rated. I suspect the AR4000D model to be the same.At 2 ohm stable RMS / per channel / see pic, the 5 power transistors @ 50% workload total per channel can draw 200Amps.Using Ohms Law 200 x 12v = 2400 peak watts.At 4 ohm stable that is cut in half. 1200 peak watts per channel. Not a true 3k watt per channel. Even combined(bridged), when using an average single speaker load of 4 ohms.

Well after my 2000 watt crunch amp fried after 10 years [but this amp never flexed unless put at the max on a A/B amp without heat issues and my back seat folded down for air...lol] ...but i think my ground was the culprit. Always attach to body near the amp, previous in the engine body mount...can be a source of resistance in the line for some reason. Terminal melted on Crunch amp... Now back to this BOSS HOGG amp; ummm its barely turned up on my two 12 inch Infinity @ 2x600 RMS subs. Now this amp flex on low continuous bass notes without distortion or effort even on low power. Never had that before; does not have heat issues either..but its turned down ...lol...so i dont think it will unless its one of these hundred degree days in Houston. Make sure you run your engine; unless you have it turned down some serious power in this amp. This amp was #1 rated and it is. LPF & HPF for any newbies has to be changed.

I have mixed feelings about this amp. I have bought 3 of these... I am only using 2 in my setup. I have them running 4 12" subs, each sub has a 3000 watt RMS, dual voice coil. Each sub is in series 2 ohms each coil, so at 4 ohms with the voice coils, then a second sub is in parallel giving it 2 ohms, those 2 subs go on 1 amp. These are competition subs, they hit HARD. I did cheap out on the amp sadly, but these amps do hit pretty good, I am not getting 3000 watts at least I don't think, most I am getting at 2 ohms with this amp is 1000-1500. I had to get a high output alternator with these because even going 75 mph my headlights were dimming really bad. Also needed 2 8 farad capacitors.So I was driving and one of the amps starts smoking, you could smell it... OK crap, didn't order it from Amazon, ordered it from VMInnovations on Amazon or whatever it is... Hard to get a clear reply even though it was less than 30 days, so I won't buy from them again. But this review is not about the seller its about the product. So I get another one from Amazon as I want all 4 subs blasting when I drive. Get it in 2 days, install it, and life continues... Then the other one did the same thing, had the same smell. Crap ok, so being a electronics guy...I opened the first amp, and found 4 100V 220MF capacitors that had puffed tops, ok thats the smell, the funny thing is I noticed the smell happening one at a time on the third amp. Then finally the other day it went out. So, these 4 caps either blew because they are cheap garbage or, just under rated on the voltage. Keep in mind when amplifying your voltage goes up significantly, and when it peaks it might go above 100V. Meh So I went on ebay found a 200V 220MF as they weren't on Amazon. replaced them in all 3 broken amps. They now work fine, power up, I just re-installed 2 of the amps tonight, and ran them for about 30 minutes, solid, as a matter a fact... They seem louder (I doubt maybe just lack of bass for last 2 weeks). I will keep posted on if they blow too. These caps are rated 100Volts more. These subs I have are power hungry, though I am not dropping them below 2 ohms on the amp.I am not even peaking the amp, I was still in the burn in, still loud but slowly increasing volume. So if you have these amps and have issues simply replace the 4 capacitors as shown in the attached picture. I circled the capacitors... Also keep in mind they are polarized, negative terminal on the capacitor is inside. Only time will tell, if this doesn't work I am just going to dish out the extra cash and get some competition amps. Make sure you do not change the value of 220. Also I recommend going above 100Volts, if you go below they will blow for sure. But you can match this value or go above, keep in mind too much above all 4 caps may not fit. The 200V ones I bought do fit, however slightly off. I only recommend this to someone that actually knows how to solder.So good amp yes, you probably won't get the 3000 Watts you are expecting to get at 1 ohm, but I can't say to be honest. The caps will blow if you are using good subs, they didn't blow before I changed the subs from the boss 3000Watt subs, which didn't hit that hard. Good luckADDITION: So I connected my Fluke meter to measure the current this thing takes, I am getting about 60 amps peak. So not bad... however... 2 of the amps did just fail, one started smoking again other was getting hot and in protect, also blew the inline fuse. See the other picture attached. As you can see the burned components, and transisotrs are fried. Do not use this amp on competition subs. Subs that demand power, it will destroy the amp. Both amps are repairable to an extent of time and troubleshooting however i'd rather not waste time on them. This amp had most transistors blown, and the resistors next to them with the diodes.The other was doing something strange, I checked all components in line, and could only find one bad transistor which I replaced. Otherwise when I connect to my desk amp, its pilling more than 5 amps, goes into protect, but even then all the transistors heat up. Every component in line to them is fine. I know its a failing component that only gets messed up when it actually has current being inducted through it. Otherwise it will be fun to find it. This issue is also intermittent, sometimes it would not do it at all, the amp should pull about 1.5 amps when first powered on, however most the time it just goes into protect. So yea I might play with it a bit, but I am going to go with Orion or Power Acoustk, I learned, don't cheap out if you already spent the money on everything else. I have 3 of these which basically will end up in the trash, one of which is working, the other 2, well one of them I might be able to fix, but I don't want to waste my time. So just keep in mind, if you're using Boss speakers, or something that isn't sucking the life out of your amp, this amp hits pretty hard for what it is. But can't seem to handle the 4 ohm load they are connected too lol. As I said POWER HUNGRY SUBS. I had them connected to the Boss 3200w subs, they worked fine, nothing exploding, smoking, however didn't hit like the subs I have in now.

Wouldn’t buy this again

Super

Really good product for the price, I would recommend these amps to anyone looking for good quality, good solid power, and great performance.

Running 4000watts max off these 2 mafkas, have them wired to 1.34 ohms, barely turned up a quarter on amp and they just slam, no problems yet, I’ll try keep an update on it as the months go on, you just gotta do your studying on your wiring job and what works best they maybe cheap but can compete with pro amps when set up properly

Pushed a high power 15 inch for 2 weeks before one day i turned the bass knob up n it cut out, fuses blew changed the fuses power light came on but no sound came out